You'll also hear those called compact marching valve trombones. I'd recommend the flugabone form factor over the traditional valve trombone. It is easy to practice your ear into bad habits. If the instrument has tuning slides you can move while playing, try to get in the habit of using them. Then figure out the best alternates where available. Whatever instrument you get, run through it early on with a tuner to understand the tendencies and try to get the valves close relative to one another. Valve instruments don't have a way to deal with this (unless you get a compensating horn). On trombone when you use the trigger, the positions get longer. Third the more valves, the more out of tune the note is. Trombone player would rarely play middle C in 6th position, but in valves you might play 1+3 (sharper) or 4 (flatter). Intonation on a note like middle C might require 1 or 1+3 or 4 - all slightly different intonation wise. Second, trombone players always go for the shortest position. Remember the valves are like a natural break on every note, so slurring is easy. One is our tendency to tongue every thing. There are some traps trombone players tend to fall into when playing valves. Eventually reading in other clefs helped me tie everything together. To actually learn valves, I started with scales, moved to Rochut, real book stuff in simple keys, then graduated to more sharps and flats. You can read in other places about compensation, that's another intonation option, usually only available on more expensive euphoniums. More valves = more alternate fingerings = more intonation options. Similar to using a gps in your car - if you just follow the gps you won’t really know how you got there, but if you figure it out yourself you’ll remember it forever. Things like that.įor me, don’t worry too much about the theoretical learning, beyond quick glances so you’re not stabbing wildly and getting frustrated. Play a bunch of diatonic things in B♭ so you can really learn those notes before you move on. Also, play things you know, easy ballads, simple short tunes, etc. The Remington long tones are, as always, excellent, because they give you plenty of time to focus on tuning and air, but also force you to make larger jumps. Play scales - always scales - and warmups you know on trombone already. Try a euphonium, flugabone or valve trombone for a 1-1 translation and without requiring too much in the way of embouchure changes. My best advice, similar to Doug’s, is just to get one and play. Sharp and flat positions aren’t reached so easily, if at all, and the physics of the horn is obviously different. For example, that whole 7th partial, which we learn automatically as G in sharp 2, F# in sharp 3, etc.you can’t do that anymore. One issue with simply remembering a conversion chart (and I’m as guilty as anyone when I play sousa) is adjusting for tunings.
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